Feeling so much better after a good nights’ sleep, I met Vince down in the dining room of the Shakespeare Hotel for our complimentary continental breakfast. This hotel is built very much in the upstairs/downstairs fashion with a rabbit warren of rooms upstairs and the dining facilities below street level. Toast, waffles, cereals, and slices of jam roll were on offer plus a dispensing machine for tea and coffee. The staff accents were heavily eastern European and the guests a real mix of European, Asian and the odd Aussie
We had a few chores to do before boarding our 10am train. Some photos of the neighbourhood, exchanging cash from dollars to pounds, tickets to collect, and a picnic to procure. We’ve been super impressed by the ease and efficiency of travelling on public transport in London so far. Paddington station has everything one could possibly need in provisions for long journeys. Ticket machines on the concourse made it easy to collect our pre-paid tickets, directions and announcements are easy to understand, cash machines and currency exchange booths were far better value than Travelex at Melbourne airport and Sainsbury’s have a wonderful collection of pre-packaged salads and fruit, sandwiches, sushi, even cans of Pimm’s should one so desire.
The 10.06 to Penzance left at 10.06 with no announcements or fanfare – just pulled out of the platform and we were on our way to a fabulous journey through the English countryside. Fields of ripening maize, freshly cut hay bales, paddocks of black headed sheep and white-faced cows, barges alongside river banks, cathedral spires and beachside fairgrounds. Hedgerows and picket fences separated the fields, interspersed with woodlots and orchards. Allotment plots lined the railway line and alpaca flocks poked heads up over hedges. At times the railway line was so close to the coast it feels as if the tracks would be swamped at high tide. The 5-hour trip was over too soon when we pulled into Penzance – the end of the line.
During a brisk 20-minute walk along the bay towing our suitcases we noted places of interest to head back to later. Pubs with beer gardens right on the water’s edge, cafes with a dozen or more types of fish listed on the menu, new retirement village apartments for sale and of course the fascinating docks. And all the while accompanied by the unmistakable sound of sea-birds on the wing above us.
One of my cousin’s runs a B&B – Keigwin House, (www.keigwinhouse.co.uk ) not far from the sea front. We lobbed in there with our bags to be greeted by her husband who I’ve never met, like long lost friends. The rooms are beautiful, spacious, quiet, and fabulously appointed. So nice after our pokey little London rooms with impossible staircases. Would totally recommend this place even if it wasn’t family. It really feels like home.
After a cuppa tea and a short relax, I was dragging Vince out for a walk around the town. I don’t go on holidays to sit in hotel rooms! At 5pm we hit the streets of Penzance – just as the shops were closing for the day. Now I know how visitors to our home town feel when they show up as we’re cashing up for the day. But we were out to walk, not shop so had a very pleasant stroll through the town – counting no less than three Warren’s bakeries where Vince has a date with a Cornish pasty or several tomorrow.
We often found ourselves walking along the side of the road where the footpath had dwindled out, on the wrong side of a blind corner in this curvy, hilly, coastal town. But the locals must be used to dodging travellers like ourselves and were very courteous whereas car horns and road rage might exist back home. The community notice boards were filled with local events for the upcoming weekend after we leave but a market at St Johns in the morning will have us there bright and early to pick through the jumble sale tables and handicrafts.
A recommendation from our hosts for a good Fish ‘n Chip shop sent us on a circuit towards Frasers on the promenade where we sat staring out to sea hoping for a glimpse of the Scillonian as she sailed in to port. Cod and chips by two, a side of mushy peas and a bottle of Italian Pinot Grigio made an excellent supper and we completely forgot to watch out for the boat. We can now boast we’ve had an after-hours “lock in” in a fish and chip shop as we lingered over the last of our wine past 8pm.
Now we really feel like we’re on holidays and the fair dinkum part of the Cornish trip begins.
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